UrbanUpdate

There are plenty of reasons you should be using a blow dryer, but also lots of situations when you shouldn’t use one, either. And in addition to knowing when to use a blow dryer, you then gotta learn how to use it properly. Doing so will ensure that you not only achieve the style you want, but also that you don’t flambée the hell your hair (and your scalp) in the meantime.

When to Use a Blow Dryer, and When Not to

You should use a blow dryer if:

-You want extra volume in your hair.

-You want to magnify the hold of a pomade or other product, or lock in a style.

-You want less frizz/a smooth finish. 

You should not use a blow dryer if:

-Your hair is severely thinning and your primary concern is hair retention.

-You simply want to speed up the drying process.

How to Use a Blow Dryer Safely and Effectively 1. Direct the style as you dry

Drying on its own is kind of pointless if you aren't also styling the hair while you go. If you want a swooping pompadour, for example, then you need to dry the hair upwards.

With any style, periodically halt the blow drying to coach it or comb it into position. Then, target the roots first. It’s the same logic as when you apply hair product to the roots: This is where you gain the most control over your style, by locking it in at the base of the hair.

2. Use a heat protectant in clean hair

In order to protect the hair from heat damage, you need to coat it with a special heat protectant spray or cream. This will lock moisture inside the hair, while smoothing the hair’s cuticle (to prevent frizzing and split ends). Then you can safely dry the exterior of the hair without compromising the needed hydration contained within each strand.

Also, it’s best to blow dry only clean hair (not necessarily shampooed, just thoroughly rinsed of water-soluble products), so that you are working with a fresh canvas each time you style. Only then will you achieve the same result every time, as opposed to layering old products on top of one another and expecting the same results. 

And lastly, towel the hair a little bit before you dry it. It'll save everyone a ton of time. 

SheaMoisture heat protectant spray$14

Amazon

OUAI hair oil + protectant spray$28

Amazon

Living Proof heat + UV protection spray$25

Walmart

3. Use an ionic dryer with around 1800 watts of power

Pick a dryer around 1800 watts, to ensure it has enough oomph. You don’t want to deal with anything weaker than 1200, especially since higher power means you can lower the heat. (More wind and less heat is a good-for-you combo.) And, if you invest in an ionic dryer, then you don’t need to use it as long.

Conair ionic hair dryer$41

Amazon

ghd "Helios" ionic hair dryer$249

Amazon

4. Turn the heat down when you can 

Wind won’t damage your hair, unlike excessive heat. There's a little button on the handle that says “cold” or resembles a snowflake. If you push this, the hot air stops and you start getting a gust of cool. The main purpose of this button, besides being a really expensive alternative to a fan in the summer, is to lock your style in place at the end of your styling session. Hot air keeps the product activated and helps direct your hair into place, but the cold air locks it into place and spares your hair a little added heat damage.

If you’re able to apply a product uniformly to the hair, and simply want to blow dry it for a smooth finish, you may have better luck with this full-cold setting. However, if the hot air helps manipulate and coach the hair into a specific direction or shape, you might have to balance the two and carefully mind the heat exposure.

5. Keep it moving, and keep a distance

Don’t just point the dryer at your hair a few inches away and blast heat on any one spot. That’s going to fry your hair, instead of simply drying it. And it’s going to permanently damage your hair. Remember this: You should keep the dryer moving to evenly distribute the heat at a distance of six inches. 

6. Don’t toss the attachments

Those attachments that come with the blow dryer do actually something! There are two in particular that you should be acquainted with, the diffuser and the concentrator. 

The diffuser: This is for people with curly hair. It’s a big, multi-pronged extension that looks like a back massager. It evenly distributes the heat and wind of the dryer in various directions, and it minimizes its intensity in the process, so that people with curly hair can dry their curls without compromising or straightening their natural style.

The concentrator: This attachment pinches together at the end, like a nozzle with a long narrow gap. That’s so you can target specific spots of the hair as you comb or brush, instead of blasting air aggressively from the end of the gun. You hold it right up close to the hair, too, an inch or two away while you guide the hair with your comb. (It works great for locking in product at the roots.) It’s important to lower the heat when using this, since you’re concentrating the heat so directly and holding the dryer closer than you otherwise would. But also—keep that dryer moving, and don’t stay an inch away from the hair for long.

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Adam Hurly has been covering men's grooming since 2013 (and for GQ since 2016). He is also a travel writer. In Fall 2024, Adam is launching Blue Print by Adam Hurly, a men's grooming platform. Adam resides in Lisbon (previously Berlin, NYC, and San Francisco). He is a Sioux Falls, SD, native... Read moreWriterInstagramRelated Stories for GQHair