UrbanUpdate

Warning: Give this one a go when you’re not bleary-eyed from some bender. Safety razors (big up until the ’70s when cartridges came out) are having something of a renaissance, and for good reason. The old school favorite works by popping a disposable, double-edged blade onto a heavy razor body, and securing a guard on top so that only the sharp edges are exposed. If you use cartridges now, imagine this is like taking the bumpers off a bowling lane. A little more room for error (blood) but a bigger payout, considering safety razors offer one of the smoothest shaves possible. (Unlike some of the multi-blade razors, the single blade doesn’t scrape away the top layer of your skin, which is often the cause of bumps and ingrown hairs.) The safety razor can also be a hell of a lot cheaper in the long run, too, considering you can find replacement blades for as little as ten cents a pop. For some quick schooling on how to use this man tool, we consulted Master Barber Hugo Hernandez from the The Art of Shaving.

Finding the Right Razor:

A good safety razor should last a lifetime, so don’t be scared to invest in quality. You’ll want one that fits well in your hand, has a nice grip, and feels heavy. ("You rely on the weight of the razor to guide your shave, you don’t press into skin," says Hernandez.) Both the R89 Grande Safety Razor from the Art of Shaving and The Double-Edge Safety Razor from Jack Black are sturdy options.

Prep Your Skin:

Wait until after you’ve showered or apply a hot towel to your face before shaving to soften skin. If you can deal with an extra step, "pre-shave oil is a great way to place a protective barrier on the skin and help increase glide," says Hernandez. After applying the oil with your hands, use a badger brush (which will help lift up hairs) to distribute a glycerin-based shaving cream.

The Shave Technique:

FYI: "There is a definite learning curve with this type of razor. You may have small nicks (like tiny paper cuts) as you begin to get used to it," says Hernandez. As in—don’t try this the morning of your wedding, before a job interview, or in a hurry. Pull skin taut in the opposite direction of the blade, and hold the razor at about thirty degrees. Remember not to apply any pressure, and use short, even strokes, going with the grain of your hair.

Replacing the Blades

** **Different blades have a different feel, so experiment to find the one you like best. (Astra, Merkur and Derby are some to consider.) You’ll know it’s time to toss a blade when it starts to tug or pull on the first couples of strokes. (But don’t forget to use both sides of the blade for more mileage.) Depending on your beard thickness, that could be every other day or once a week.

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