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Welcome to the World of Scentless Cologne

2025-02-05 14:50:23 Source:ibvck Classification:Fashion

I like a lot of colognes, but very few are impressive enough to wear on a regular basis. And many are just plain bad. And as someone who tests tons of products, I’m skeptical of anything that claims to have reinvented the wheel.

Escentric Molecules has an intriguing claim, though: Each barely-there fragrance mixes with the chemistry of the wearer’s skin, thus creating a unique olfactory experience for anyone who smells it. Call it personalized perfumery. This is a departure from the traditional “top-, middle-, and base-note” structure of most colognes, which dissipate in a very scientific order—top and middle notes make the first impression, but it’s the base notes that linger for hours. Traditionally, most scents smell the same on any wearer.

I personally don’t think modern perfumery needs much innovation, so Escentric Molecules felt like another gimmick to me. Plus, the $145 for 3.5 oz. was a lot to gamble. But I heard rumors that Rihanna, Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Kate Moss, and even Zaha Hadid are fans of Escentric Molecules. So, I decided to test it for myself.

And you know what? I liked it. I liked it a lot. Hours after I applied the minimalist fragrances, a pal asked me what detergent I use, because, well, I smelled quite pleasant. To be fair, Escentric 01 doesn’t resemble detergent, but my friend didn’t realize he was smelling cologne. I guess that’s not a bad thing, is it? He liked the subtlety, and he wanted to replicate it, which is the ultimate form of flattery!

For a week, I alternated between the two fragrances in the “Iso E Super” set, the "01" collection which includes the "Escentric 01" and the "Molecule 01." Confusing, I know. As they describe it, “Iso E Super is characterized by a hyper-modern cedarwood note with a velvety sensation... To the wearer, it seems to vanish and then re-appear. This is due to the way it bonds with receptors in the olfactory system, only slowly releasing to make way for a fresh charge of the molecule on the receptors. Iso E Super does not exist in nature. It was created in a laboratory at IFF in 1973.” Which is weird. And intriguing.

Of the pair, Escentric 01 gets my higher vote—it’s got a pinch of pepper, lemon, and iris. Once applied, it reminded me of how my loved ones (and other people I get close enough to smell) have a unique, identifying scent to them—some original musk that permeates their apartment and clothes and car. I’ve never had anyone tell me that I have a unique smell, but I’ve always wanted one. That’s where the Escentric 01 lands: People will remember the scent, but not because it’s overwhelming. It hardly calls attention to itself, but it’s there, and—at least in my experience—it's a good smell.

The Molecule 01 took a little longer to activate, and is subtler yet, since it's stripped down to its most simple molecular form. Its neutrality is more reminiscent of a good, not-overpowering deodorant than a department store cologne bath.

I can’t promise that your own skin’s chemistry will create such positive reactions. Maybe it’ll smell like day-old curry, or burnt hair. Probably not. Color me impressed: Unlike many other scents—the ones I’m usually testing, even the good ones—Escentric 01 is a scent you get to wear, instead of letting them wear you.



Adam Hurly has been covering men's grooming since 2013 (and for GQ since 2016). He is also a travel writer. In Fall 2024, Adam is launching Blue Print by Adam Hurly, a men's grooming platform. Adam resides in Lisbon (previously Berlin, NYC, and San Francisco). He is a Sioux Falls, SD, native... Read moreWriterInstagramRelated Stories for GQColognes and Fragrances

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